Stockmaking… You Can Build GunStocks!

Here is a book that will help anybody with the desire and some ability to work with your hands to build gun stocks.  Sherman L. Mays wrote this book to help people with no experience at all to learn the process of making stocks, repairing, finishing and even checkering them.  Naturally, you can’t write a book like this and have it limited to beginners only.  Every gunsmith I have ever met or worked with had a trick or secret to share that made me more profitable and a better craftsman.  Sherman is no exception to that rule, no matter your experience there are good ideas in this book.

Sherman has over forty years invested in making and checkering stocks for his clients.  Along the way he has learned a few tricks and he is not afraid to share his knowledge. The focus of this book is on two piece stocks.  Sherm’s bread and butter is shotgun stocks.  That does not mean a rifle guy can’t learn from this tome.  The subjects of detail work like sling swivels, grip caps and recoil pads are all covered in great detail.

General gunsmith’s have to know a lot about a wide variety of skills. Not the least of which is wood working and stock design.  If you want happy clients the stock must fit them properly.  Custom stock makers are folks who specialize in working only on the gun stock. Their work is highly prized because of their attention to detail and great knowledge of how to achieve the best results.  This textbook will help you produce the professional quality work you dream of doing.

I have never seen this many pictures in a manual, I would argue that more books of how-to information should be this well illustrated.  There are a lot of readers who need pictures to fill in the blanks in their understanding. This book meets you needs both in writing and in illustrations.

364 pages

Perfect Bound, paperback

Format is 8.5″x11″

662 – Mixed color and black  & white pics.

ISBN# 9780578165813

Retail $49.95

Were you can get it:  Amazon or https://4drentals.com/product/stock-work-for-the-beginner

Classic Rifle Stock Drawings & How to Use Them

A while back I mentioned a book by Alvin Linden and then a set of Classic Rifle Stock Drawings that are currently available.  The interest in these posts has been high, so this is meant to expand on the previous posts.   What I have posted below is the instructions from the CD on American Classic Rifle Stocks.  I think they will give you some insight into the drawings on the CD and on top of that there are some useful bits of information you can use even if you don’t have the drawings.  Enjoy.

How to use the Drawings:

These Drawings were assembled to define the parameters of the “American Classic” hunting stock.  Many of the stocks made by novices and even some professionals lack the aesthetics that should be afforded a nice piece of wood.  Worse yet, they are left too large, or cut down too small, either of these conditions will make a stock that has poor handling characteristics and may even add to the felt recoil.  A properly designed stock

Improves handling, reduces felt recoil, and is pleasing to the eye.  It is not our intention here to teach you stock making.

How These Drawings Evolved:

Normally drawings are very specific about dimensions, and tolerances are very tight, not so with these drawings.  You will see that there is a range of dimensions for most measurement.  The reason for this is simple, no two shooters are alike, so you need to be able to adjust the dimensions for the shooter.  Also magnum guns are generally built heavier than standard caliber guns to help control recoil.  The dimensions included here were derived by measuring about 100 stocks from various custom makers, some names you would recognize and some you might not.  So the ideas represented come from a broad cross section of custom stock makers, not just the opinion of one maker.

How do I decide which dimensions to use?

The Caliber of the rifle, and the size of the barreled action will be a major factor in this decision.  A light caliber like 243 Winchester with a sporter weight barrel would likely use the smaller dimensions, because the recoil will be low and handling is probably more important than controlling recoil.  On the other hand, if you working with a 375 H&H you will likely want a heavier stock to help manage recoil.  Grip length and curve may be tighter on a standard caliber where recoil will not bang your knuckles against the trigger guard.  Magnum stocks normally get a longer grip with a more open curve.   Since classic stocks are not generally used on varminters, or benchrest guns excessively heavy barrel tapers do not enter into the question.  However, you will find that much of the data here will apply to other stock designs.   For instance comb height, length of grip, and length of comb are all pretty universal.

I want to use my stock strictly with iron sights, does that make a difference?

Yes, it makes a huge difference.  Looking at the dimensions, you will see that several of the measurements are specified for either scoped or iron sighted rifle.   Use the dimensions for the sight system you will be using as your primary sights on the rifle.

Tricks the Pros use:

Clients want a stock that “fits like a glove”.  To accomplish this, a surprisingly small change is needed.  You will see dimensions for Cast and Cant included in the drawings.  In general, cast off is for right hand shooters and conversely cast on is most often used for left-handed shooters, the same is true of Cant. Grips can ‘Cant’ as well, use the same rule for right and left-handers.  Cant the grip up to about .125” in the desired direction.  This is accomplished by finding the centerline of the stock and then marking the center of the grip canted in the direction desired.

Recoil can be controlled by some simple changes to the stock design.  First, make the butt as large as the design will allow.  Second, use a high quality recoil pad, like the Pachmayer Decelerator®, Kick-Eez®, or Limb Saver®.  The third major method for controlling recoil is making the pitch of the stock neutral.  Pitch is measured as the angle of the butt to the bore line, neutral is 90 degrees to the bore line.  Once the top of the stock along the barrel channel is finished it can be used as the bore line, set the stock upside down on flat table, using a square you can mark the pitch on the butt where you intend to cut it off for the recoil pad installation.  Finally, installation of a mercury recoil reducer in the stock is a great way to control recoil, although it does add weight to the stock.

Each area of the stock should flow smoothly into the next.  Shadow lines if used should be crisp and clean, but not sharp to the touch.  The best way to check these items is to close your eyes and feel with your fingers.  It is amazing how small an imperfection you can pick out with just a touch.

Fred Zeglin is the copyright holder for these prints and is working on an updated file format so they can return to the market. 06/01/2018

Get the Ball Rolling!

Before somone feels the need to write and ask I thoght I should simply tell the story.  The picture at the top of the Blog is a before and after for some of my work.  This rifle is based on a model 71/84 Mauser action, it has a tubular magazine under the barrel.  Original caliber was 11mm Mauser, it is now a 45-70.  Minamal feeding work was required to make it work.

The stock pattern is my own design, the dimensions were modernized so that the irons sights are easy to use and it points very naturally.  Styling was based on original sporters made with this action by Mauser.  The Manlicher pattern however is my own design, the magazine is hidden inside the stock and retained by the front sling swivel.  A pistol grip was added as the classic designs were all straight grip.

If your interested in more information on the 71/84, Ludwig Olson wrote a book “Mauser Bolt Rifles” that has some pictures, specifications and best of all the various sporters are shown along with the military version of the rifle.  This book is available from www.brownells.com.